Mixed Climbing In Scotland

In January, I joint a course in mixed climbing in Scotland. 

Here on the second pitch of "Dorsal Arete" II

Kaare is following on a bit steeper terrain.

 

Rasmus W is leading the final pitch on the famous Arete

Looking up on the Arete. The descend gully in the back. A perfect beginner's route.

Up and over the Arete. Sadly quite short.

Ben Nevis in "Non-Scottish" Conditions

Rasmus W is leading the first pitch on "Morwind" IV, 4

3rd belay. A really nice route, that usually can be climbed, when the wind is too bad on Nevis.

Just below the top in Perfect weather.

Lars is following on first pitch on "Twisting Gully" III,4

Next Pitch. The 3rd day, we had a bit more Scottish-like weather.

Top of the route, in qouite hard winds.

Leading my first drytool-route in Quarry. This is D4

This cave is a bit harder. Up too D12.

Rasmus W is trying some of the hard routes.

Kaare is climbing som indoor Ice in Ice Factor.

The routes quite easy, but fun too try some overhanging ice, indoors.

Some training in the bouldercave.

Rjukan 2011

Jacob and I, went to Rjukan, Norway for some iceclimbing after Christmas. 

Jacob climbed the route, called "Gaustaspøkelse" WI4, In Krokan Area

Next route, was my lead. This is "Kjøkkentrappa" WI4, Krokan Area

A Very nice route. And my first lead on waterice.

But a Quite wet route:)

Next Day, we went to "Gaustatoppen" were the ice was better. This is "Gaustatoppfossen" WI4

Jacob did a route next to "Gaustatoppfossen"

A bit more mixed terrain, with snow, ice and rock.

Kullentur Oktober

Climbing on Kullaberg, Sweden.

The view from "Alteret"

Me on "the Crack"

Jacob in "Valhalla"

Chere Couloir II D 350m

May 2011, Jacob and I, went to Chamonix to climb a couple of routes. We had about 5 days.

As soon as we came to Chamonix, we started packing our gear, to be ready to stay up there for 2 days. (which should be good conditions)  

The plan was to climb Chere Couloir on Tacul, and then go to the cosmique hut, and then go to climb the N-face of Tour Ronde the next day. (Where we only would have a "half" day, because of the weather)

Me with Chere Couloir in the back. The clear line in the left of the triangle.

On the move:) The weather is very good, with high sun, no wind and blue sky.

Jacob is getting ready to climb pitch 3. The route was quite crowded, (see the rope of climbers coming down) 

Jacob on Pitch 3. Very good ice conditions. 

Me at the top of pitch 3. Already here it is a bit late, because of the other teams. But the weather was good and from here, there should not be anybody above us.

Me on pitch 4.

Top of pitch 4 or 5 or something. From here, the couloir "opened up, and the climbing became less steep, and less interesting.

It ended up here, where we could see none of the other teams had been. Because it was simply too boring, Here have climbed 2 pitches longer, than the "usual" end. (The route can be climbed all the way to top of tacul) From here we startet absail down. And we had a couple of hours of light left, so that should be fine.

After we absailed down, on our second go, the rope jammed. So we had to cut it. so now we only had one 50m half-rope. That was ok, but it just took a bit longer than expected:) We came to the bottom at 1 AM, put up a tent to "buvi" for the night.

A small video from the trip:)

Zermatt 2009

Sommeren 2009 tog vi med Dansk Bjergklub på rebledertur i Zermatt. 

Holdet foran Matterhorn

Matterhorn i gode forhold

Fællestur på Breithorn West 4164m i perfekte forhold. 

De sidste meter inden toppen

Topbilled derefter steg vi ned til liften og videre ned til Zermatt, hvor vi tog direkte videre til Flualp for at dagen efter at lave Rimpfischhorn.

Rimpfischhorn 4199m efter 1. af 3 klatrepassager 

Røde linie er 3. klatrepassage med noget løs 3. grads

På vej op igennem 3. passage

Graten mellem de 2 toppe

Topbilled med Søren og jeg

Anders ved nedstigningen

Riffelhorn 2928m

Igang med Thermometeregg, 5c, 7 reblænger

Topbilled på Riffelhorn