Rescue In Sweden

This weekend i was on a couse, in rescue techniques at Kullaberg, Sweden.

The course was held by instructors from the Danish Climbing Federation.

The weather was classic "kullen"-weather.

Daffy Jam (V), Kullen

This sunday, me and my brother went to Sweden for a bit of climbing to start the season. The weather was ok, with around 5 degrees and a bit of wind directly from the side. Some places had a bit of ice left, and some water was running down. Here we went to "Bjørnen".   

"DaffyJam". (Right Crack above)

   



I startet out on "DaffyJam", with a very nice 5 graded route. I brought a shitload of gear to this 12m route, just to get startet.
The route is filled with good holds and jugs. Half way up, it turns a bit overhanging, but still with plenty of good jugs. Halfway, is a small ledge. A nice little rest, before the fun part. (I thought)
Im half way up, my hands is already numb, and im fuckin' Cold. I stops looks down at my brother, and we are both laughing, thinking "Shit, this should have been easy". I put on a pair of gloves, do a bit of arm swings, then continue up. Not the best route to do in gloves, i think, the lesson is:) After Jacob did it without gloves:(

After Jacob did Daffy.. We wanted to try the next one, called "Optimal". Almost same grade as Daffy, and a bit of the same style. So we went for it. Jacob started out, also struggling with the cold and numb hands. Here aswell with a small grin on the face, as we both fought our way up, this 12m Face, trying not to look pathetic:) It would have been two very nice routes on a sunny day. It was still nice climbing now, but to be honest, a hard start of the season. 

BUT, the season has startet. :)

Jacob on "Optimal"

Jacob in Nimis Area.

We did two more climbs at "Bjørnen", then we went to another place, called Nimis. There is a couple of nice routes there aswell. But the rock was wet and very slippery.  

Rjukan 2012

 In February, i went to Rjukan again, for some ice climbing. This time, the weather was better, with -15° and no wind.

Kaare and me on top of "Nedre Svingfoss" WI3

Last climb of the day was "Bakveien"WI4, a 2 pitches climb.

Here almost on the rest. This section was a bit harder, than i thought, but the ice was very good.

This is the "Bakveien" (detour). ½ m wide gully on 70 degrees ice. Very fun climb

Christian is balaying the last pitch. The light is gone and temperature was around -18°

Leading the last pitch, in wet conditions

Christian and Kaare is following. Belaying was Quite cold, with wet cloves:)

Kaare is Leading the first pitch of "Tjønnstadbergfossen" WI4, 4 Pitches and 150m. Rjukan City in the back

Me leading second pitch.

Christian on the 3rd pitch and last steep section.

Christian and Kaare on 3rd Belay. Rjukan City in the back. A very nice "half a day" climb.

On the last abseil, we trained Abalakovs. So we made one each, and went down the last 60m

Sunday we had a half day of Climbing, before going home. Here on the "Jomfrua"WI4.

The first 10-15 meters were quite steep, but on very good ice.

The Second half, of "Jomfrua"

Christian and Kaare following fast.

Anders put up a toprope on a M5 route, so we did a bit of Mix training. (More like Drytool, but a very good route)

Mixed Climbing In Scotland

In January, I joint a course in mixed climbing in Scotland. 

Here on the second pitch of "Dorsal Arete" II

Kaare is following on a bit steeper terrain.

 

Rasmus W is leading the final pitch on the famous Arete

Looking up on the Arete. The descend gully in the back. A perfect beginner's route.

Up and over the Arete. Sadly quite short.

Ben Nevis in "Non-Scottish" Conditions

Rasmus W is leading the first pitch on "Morwind" IV, 4

3rd belay. A really nice route, that usually can be climbed, when the wind is too bad on Nevis.

Just below the top in Perfect weather.

Lars is following on first pitch on "Twisting Gully" III,4

Next Pitch. The 3rd day, we had a bit more Scottish-like weather.

Top of the route, in qouite hard winds.

Leading my first drytool-route in Quarry. This is D4

This cave is a bit harder. Up too D12.

Rasmus W is trying some of the hard routes.

Kaare is climbing som indoor Ice in Ice Factor.

The routes quite easy, but fun too try some overhanging ice, indoors.

Some training in the bouldercave.

Rjukan 2011

Jacob and I, went to Rjukan, Norway for some iceclimbing after Christmas. 

Jacob climbed the route, called "Gaustaspøkelse" WI4, In Krokan Area

Next route, was my lead. This is "Kjøkkentrappa" WI4, Krokan Area

A Very nice route. And my first lead on waterice.

But a Quite wet route:)

Next Day, we went to "Gaustatoppen" were the ice was better. This is "Gaustatoppfossen" WI4

Jacob did a route next to "Gaustatoppfossen"

A bit more mixed terrain, with snow, ice and rock.