May 2011, Jacob and I, went to Chamonix to climb a couple of routes. We had about 5 days.
As soon as we came to Chamonix, we started packing our gear, to be ready to stay up there for 2 days. (which should be good conditions)
The plan was to climb Chere Couloir on Tacul, and then go to the cosmique hut, and then go to climb the N-face of Tour Ronde the next day. (Where we only would have a "half" day, because of the weather)
Me with Chere Couloir in the back. The clear line in the left of the triangle.
On the move:) The weather is very good, with high sun, no wind and blue sky.
Jacob is getting ready to climb pitch 3. The route was quite crowded, (see the rope of climbers coming down)
Jacob on Pitch 3. Very good ice conditions.
Me at the top of pitch 3. Already here it is a bit late, because of the other teams. But the weather was good and from here, there should not be anybody above us.
Me on pitch 4.
Top of pitch 4 or 5 or something. From here, the couloir "opened up, and the climbing became less steep, and less interesting.
It ended up here, where we could see none of the other teams had been. Because it was simply too boring, Here have climbed 2 pitches longer, than the "usual" end. (The route can be climbed all the way to top of tacul) From here we startet absail down. And we had a couple of hours of light left, so that should be fine.
After we absailed down, on our second go, the rope jammed. So we had to cut it. so now we only had one 50m half-rope. That was ok, but it just took a bit longer than expected:) We came to the bottom at 1 AM, put up a tent to "buvi" for the night.
